". . .stories don't mean anything when you've got no one to tell them to. . ."
Showing posts with label daegu. Show all posts
Showing posts with label daegu. Show all posts

Thursday, April 22, 2010

Let's talk Culture: Part One

To state the obvious. . .my favorite thing about travel is discovering a new culture. . .what the average day is like, the people, the art. . .and most importantly the food--food is an integral part of a culture. (I get this from my mom. . .whenever, I am somewhere new, her first question is, what is the food like?)

Early on in my travel career, I found that the cultures most unlike my own were the most fascinating. . .England is nice, but it's kind of like the States only slightly askew. . .Western Europe. . .beautiful and full of history, but no big challenges. . .However, Nicaragua, Panama, Turkey. . .now, they were different. . .there were major cultural differences and many challenges to overcome while adventuring into them. . .and that is one of the major reasons I chose Southeast Asia, as a new travel destination. . .but this time. . .it's not just travel. . .this is full immersion into a new world for me, and I am finding the differences to be major, but also the similarities are intriguing. . .

So, let's talk obvious differences. . .first the language--there aren't "letters" just characters. The vocal stress is not on the consonants but rather the vowels, and to me it sounds like singing. Truly, I am mesmerized when a Korean starts talking to me. . .I feel like I am suddenly privy to a private musical performance. (Certainly doesn't help when I am trying to order food, and I just stand there stunned, but the ladies at my favorite restaurant Kjm Pasa, are quite used to my odd behavior at this point). . .

Which brings me to food. . .food defines a culture. . .not only what they eat, but how they prepare it. I do not pretend to know how food represents a culture, however, I know from experience that all cultures (whether you are in small town america or in an obscure village in Nicaragua) people are always proud of the food from their world. I know I love sharing true southern biscuits and gravy with others. . .Korea is no different. They are proud of their food, and they love to talk about it. . . .whenever you talk to Korean about their cuisine, the first thing they ask is, "have you had Kimchi?" (for those who don't know, Kimchi is fermented cabbage that is very spicy and served with every meal) Simply put, it is delicious, and extremely good for you. . .Koreans are quick to point out that when the Avian Flu broke out in SE Asia, Koreans didn't get it, and when scientists did a study to see why, they found it was the fermentation process of Kimchi that strengthened the Koreans' immune system. . .the next thing a Korean asks you when discussing culinary delights, is "do you like spicy food?" Korean food is very spicy. . .I love it, but many find it is too hard to handle. . .and if you are vegetarian, eating becomes much more difficult. . .the Korean palette is focused around beef and seafood. . .Although Bibimbap, is probably my most favorite meal, and it consists of rice, veggies, and seaweed. It is important to note, I am still getting to know Korean cuisine, but so far, I am in love with it. . .and I am sure I will be writing much more on it. . .

In other culture news. . .

Walking. Seems simple and straightforward. For those who don't know, Korea was colonized by Japan in the early 20th century, so they adopted a lot of the Japanese ways. . .one of them being walking on the left hand side. However, about 2 years ago, the Korean government wanted to make Korea a bit more westernized, and so they attempted to change this walking pattern. . .not quite sure how it happened, but this is what I imagine. . .

There is a super secret meeting late at night. Top Korean officials decide everyone should walk on the right side. So (without notifying a single citizen) they release their henchmen, who wear all black and ninja masks, into the subways and on to the streets. In one night, they change all the walking arrows from the left side to the right side. . .

The result. . .the following morning, Koreans, ready to start their day, descend upon the streets and subways. . .they are greeted with new arrows beckoning them to walk on the right side. Instinct screams "NO!!" Rational thought says, "YES!!" Instinct and Rationale are at an impasse. Body flutters and stalls out. . .The society as a whole pauses. Necessity kicks in and everyone begins to walk, however, in that moment, society becomes divided into traditionalists and followers. . .mass confusion ensues and the people are left with no sense of where to walk.

Basically, Koreans do not know where to walk, and so westerners (such as myself) find themselves walking down the middle of hallways and sidewalks, hoping not to run into anyone. . .

The sidewalks bring me to another point. . .cars. In the States, and most countries I've been to, sidewalks are meant for people who walk to their intended destination. . .not so much here in Korea. . .here, when a car driver no longer wants to deal with the streets he simply pulls up on the sidewalk and goes where he needs to go. . .pedestrians are considered nuisances. . .so a pedestrian is not only playing Frogger as she crosses the street, but also as she walks along the sidewalks. . .

Therefore, I am not only avoiding confused Koreans who are not sure where to walk, but I am also avoiding whole vehicles who are tired of playing road politics. . .combine this with my severe lack of coordination, and we have a charlie chaplin film to say the least.

Then we add old ladies into the mix. . .from what I've gathered through observation and conversation, elderly ladies reign supreme in this land. On one hand, this causes me great joy. . .on the other. . .a huge amount of stress. You do not want to cross an old lady, because each one feels it is her right to beat sense into you using her cane or her purse or whatever. . .this has yet to happen to me, but I waiting for my time to come. Of course,this tradition makes daily life interesting. . .My first day walking down the streets of Daegu, I saw elderly women blindly walking into traffic. . .at first I felt the need to rescue them, but then I realized. . .they are fully aware of the traffic, the blowing horns, and the yelling drivers. . .they just don't care. They know people will stop for them, and that they have earned that right. . .and so they walk into the street carrying on their conversations with each other, and calmly show their disdain for the drivers and their obnoxious horns. . .having discovered this cultural nuance, I find myself hovering about the old ladies as I walk to work. . .I get there in half the time, and their talking offers a music accompaniment to my steps.

Another cultural nuance is that alcohol/social drinking is a high priority. . .I certainly can embrace a society that believes in social debauchery. . .after 6PM walk into any restaurant and it is a robust environment--full of energy and conversation. . .people talking and laughing and drinking, and just letting go of there day. Yes please! However, when this cultural nuance bleeds into traffic. . .a slight discomfort arises. . .since drinking is so accepted and encouraged, many taxi drivers imbibe throughout their shift, combine that with the sidewalk being open driving territory, and you get really stressed pedestrians. This culture distinction certainly makes you wonder about he sidewalk--i mean is it drivers who hate traffic, or drunk drivers who could care less. . .Either way, it certainly makes the walk home an interesting adventure. . .

And with that. . .I am done for now. . .Needless to say, the culture is certainly different, and it will take more than one blog, and probably more than one lifetime to really compile and express it. . .

However, I do find it mesmerizing, inspiring, enlightening, and some what confounding. I am so glad we humans are all so different, and I feel fortunate to experience different parts of the world. I encourage you all to travel and experience. . .it is crucial to our growth and survival.

and so a quote. . .
"He who is different from me, does not impoverish me--he enriches me. Our unity is constituted in something higher than ourselves--in man. . .for no man seeks to hear his own echo, or to find his reflection in the glass." -- Antoine De Saint-Exupery.

be well my furry friends.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Arrival and a Friend

I arrive in Daegu.

The trip here was relatively uneventful. As soon as I found out I passed training, I signed my contract and they loaded me and my luggage on to the KTX train bound for Daegu. The KTX is the bullet train, and it is super fast, and a sweet ride, especially when you are booked in a first class seat.

The Korean country side is eclectic but quite beautiful. We passed cities, mountains, farms, and many many rice fields. Many people were working their fields, with nothing more than a hoe. . .and they all seemed to be solo jobs. . .there was never more than one person working in the middle of an enormous field.

As the sun set, my train pulled into the Daegu station, so I strapped on my backpack grabbed my extremely heavy suitcase and headed off the train. . .there waiting for me was what can only be described as a flight of stairs akin to Mt. Everest. . .so, I giggle to myself and begin the process of slowly working my way up the mountain with an ocean of people flying past me, knocking me, and of course tripping over my obnoxious sized suitcase. Suddenly out of no where a man who seemed to be in his sixties comes up grabs my suitcase and begins to fly up the stairs with it. I stood their stunned, by the sheer strength and speed of this man twice my age, and then realized it is my bag he has and I run up after him. I reach the top of the stairs at the same time he does. . .he places my suitcase down, bows to me and takes off. I stammer out "kahm sahm nee dah" (thank you) after him, but he is already gone. . .I stand their in awe, not quite sure what to do next. I guess I should find the person I am supposed to meet. . .

I turn around and there is Philip, who is charged with picking me up from the station. Philip works for Chungdahm, and his english is what he calls survival english. . .but it is still quite good. He brings me to my home.

Home.

A place of my own.

It is brightly colored and has what I like to call "a home start up kit"--a box with a towel, a plate, a spoon, chopsticks, and soap. I have a wall full of orange and pink flowers, and the brightest pinkest comforter with huge green and purple flowers. . .it is incredibly tacky and I love it.

The next morning, I get a knock at the door. I am still in my jammies, a bit smelly from yesterday's travels, and I have pimple cream dotted in my problem areas. I wait for a minute, hoping the knocker will go away, but they continue to knock. I have no choice. . .so I stumble to the door. Of course, it is not a regular key operated door, it is electronic, and i have no idea how to open it. So, I tug on the handle, push buttons, and do just about everything but still the door won't open. . .and all I can think is who is on the other side and what must they be thinking. I can't really call out, because most likely there is a Korean on the other side of the door, so I struggle with the door for about 3 or 4 minutes, and then finally, I come across the one button in english. . ."open/close". . .idiot!. . .push the open, and wah-lah. . .the door opens. Then. . . .then. . .I realize (as I am staring at this very puzzled Korean man) that I still have the pimple cream on my face.

"Do. . .uh. . .you say English?"

"yes" (I say with marked relief)

"No. No. say Korean?"

"oh, No." (with marked disappointment)

"uh. . .my toilet. . .do you have tool?" (He makes a plunger gesture)

"No. I. . . .just. . .moved (stupid hand gesture). . .in. . .last night (other stupid hand gesture.) Sorry?"

"Okay." (he bows and leaves.)

So, that wasn't terrible. . .if only I had remembered to wash my face! Oh well. . .so it goes. I settle back to unpacking, and 10 minutes later another knock comes to the door. Oh great. . .now what, at least the pimple cream is gone and I know how to work the door handle. . .

There at the door is the same sweet Korean man. This time holding donuts and milk, and says it is for me. For me? I didn't even have a plunger. . .I didn't do anything, but smell bad and look crazy. But it would be rude not to take it. . .and well, it is donuts. . .So, I take it. . .and invite him in. (of course, i broke major korean protocol on accepting the gift right away. . .you are supposed to refuse a couple of times, then accept it with both hands) Yeah, I didn't refuse, and took it with one hand. . .(me and my silly american ways). . .but like a polite american, I invite him into my messy yet humble abode. He comes in, I clear a spot at the table and ask his name.

His Korean name is Pyon. . .his English name is Chris, and he has been wanting a foreign friend so he can learn english. . .I told him I've been wanting a Korean friend so I can learn Korean. So, now we are going to help each other out. . .we both had our translation books out and we talked about movies and music and our families. . .he in English and me in very bad Korean. . .(for the record, the Korean language puts a lot of emphasis on vowels and not so much on consonants. . .it is very difficult to say properly). Chris said that most Koreans are scared of foreigners because they (Koreans) can't speak English, and that I am very lucky to already know it, because it is a language of the world. Wow. . .that simple statement makes me even more happy to be doing what I am doing. . .I am helping people communicate. . .Chris said he gets so frustrated because he can't say what he is thinking in English. . .(I told him I have that problem too).

Self reflection moment. . .I find it interesting that everything I teach or find interest in centers around self expression and communication. Theatre is a way of expressing ideas and feelings through the body and tongue and teaching english is not just teaching people the right words, but it is teaching them how to critically think and express their ideas in english. I find expression to be profound. . . it seems that life centers around finding a way to communicate. . .the mute/deaf learns sign language, the blind learn braille, the bees dance, the dog barks, and we continually create devices to heighten our communication capabilities.

It's interesting to find communication at the center of my life--a girl who couldn't bare to talk in high school on most days.

So, I have a new Korean friend, even though I was smelly, in my jammies, and quite hideous when I met him. . .

I also went to the school, met my fellow teachers. . .drank lots of soju (rice wine) and beer, and ate some great food.

I do love this life. . .I love the generosity of the people around me, the culture, and the beauty. What's interesting is I do miss my people, my culture, and the beauty of my own country. . .but my desire to experience this culture counters that longing. . .for now.

and so a quote. . .before i let you go. . .
"What would it be like to have not only color vision but culture vision, the ability to see the multiple world's of others." --Mary Catherine Bateson